remote stopped working
There may be 2 sets of battles pending your model. Are the small batteries 12VDC 2.5Ah good? Does it drive while plugged in? Verify these points.
Thank you for the reply. I know that batteries were replaced about 2 months ago. What do you mean by "does it drive while plugged in"? Auxilary controls, the ones on the table column only work when it is plugged in. Thank you
Call Steris tech support 800-333-8848 or 8828 and verify whether the remote control board is good. If there is lights on the control board on the column. One of the cables from the control board to the power supply may have a bad section or bad connections. I have one that is doing the same thing. I can't remember the pins right now. Steris tech support will help. I'll be able to help you further next week.
there are 2 sets of batteries under the base cover. 1 set for the remote control to work, the other for the motor. The control batteries are probably dead or not plugged in properly, if your aux controls only work when plugged in, I'd say motor batteries as well. Even tho they were replaced recently doesn't mean that A. they were plugged in properly, B. weren't dead or damaged before they reached you, C. you have a power supply issues that isn't charging them, converting properly, etc. 2080s occasionaly had a regulator issue on the power supply. check your battery voltages 1st, then plug it in and see if they are getting enough power to charge.
So to clarify... The table works completely normal when plugged in to A/C power? Hand control and manual override switches?
Does the hand control cut off when you wiggle the cord? These are bad about wire breaks near the strain relief. Replacement cords are availabe and easy to replace. Swap to another table if you have that luxury and see if the issue is in the hand control.
Normally the only "clicking" noise you hear on these is when you first apply A/C voltage. If it is cycling or chattering or clicking multiple times, I would suspect the A/C plate assembly where the power cord plugs in, the cord itself, or the voltage selection rotary switches on the power supply. I have seen these cause issues several times and is normally sorted by simply exercising the switches by turning them back and forth a few times with the A/C disconnected.
Turning the hand control "ON" or "OFF" will also produce a clicking noise, but it would be impossible to "chatter" those clicks or cycle them quickly as those relays latch either way dependent on input from the hand control. Basically, once the hand control is ON, lost connection, bad board, bad blister pad, lost power, etc. would just turn OFF. The ON command is not restore-able and will have to be sent again by the hand control to hear another click.
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Yes, the table works totally fine when plugged in, but only from manual switches only. Hand control doesn't work when plugged or unpluged, but it does make a clicking sound when i press ON and OFF. Hand control makes the clicking sound when power is unplugged and sometimes the lights turn on, but not for long. Just to clarify clicking sound only occurs when i press ON or OFF and it only clicks once when you press ON or OFF. It seems the sound comes from the bottom of the base.
Wiggling the cord doesn't do anything. Unfortunately I only have one table and I don't know anyone else in my area who has another table in order to test the remote, but that would be an ideal way to test it.
Have you removed the cord / cover from the bottom of the hand control? The connector is bad about unplugging itself from the board, especially if it wasn't secured properly. Could be something that simple, otherwise, I would suspect one of the three components in the hand control assembly. Cord, board, or case / switch pad. It is difficult to further nail it down without spares. Does the time the lights will stay on seem consistant? Or random? If consistant, I would lean toward the board, if random I would look more at the cord and case. Also, keep in mind that actuating any of the manual override switches, including the floor lock, will turn the hand control off.
I would stick with A/C powered testing only until you have everything back to normal in that state before delving into battery issues. It is easy to chase yourself in circles with battery / power issues.
Battery voltage has nothing to do with this issue. Take them completely out if you want... the hand control should still operate normally under A/C power.
As mentioned before: Electric tables have two smaller batteries who's main purpose is to open solenoid valves as you manually pump hydraulics with the foot pump and hold override switches. Battery tables also have the two larger batteries which will run the pump.
This issue is a problem with communication between the hand control and the table control board, most likely something in the hand control. There is a very slim chance it could be the table control board, or the internal wiring between the two, but I would not even consider that until I verified the hand control to be 100%.
Forget the batteries, until you have a battery issue...